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Creations of a Corsetiere
Heart Truth Calgary Red Dress Fashion Show 
3rd-Oct-2012 07:17 pm
Originally posted by rachel54321at Heart Truth Calgary Red Dress Fashion Show
I was selected as one of 11 designers from 8 submissions to create a unique Red Dress in support of heart and stroke awareness in women. This was my original sketch.

Original Heart Truth Calgary sketch, Ivy Rose Designs, 2012 183448_10151994801260961_1033414200_n[1]

Our only instructions were to submit a Red Dress design for a celebrity/VIP to wear on the runway of the Heart Truth fashion show... I found just that daunting enough, as I like to try to match design to personality and body type, and had no idea who the celebrity/VIP might be.

After my design was selected, I was assigned my celebrity, CityTV BT personality Jill Belland.  We met for a short consultation and I took her measurements. After making a pattern using these measurements, I then sewed up a mock-up, or toile, to check basic fit before I got into detailed seaming.
Patern draft, Ivy Rose Designs, 2012
Patern toile, Ivy Rose Designs, 2012 photo_2

It was a bit big, and there were some changes to make, so I tweaked the pattern in some spots and made a new toile using coutil instead of sheeting, as I was concerned the sheeting was stretching under stress....

coutil mock backPattern toile, Ivy Rose Designs, 2012
Pattern, Ivy Rose Designs, 2012

Again minor tweaks as the structure comes together, and client's desires are narrowed down.

Fabric, Ivy Rose Designs, 2012  Heart Truth Calgary
I have chosen spot broche coutil for the corset, and a cotton lace for the skirt, with a red satin underskirt. As the theme is Red I needed to dye both of these fabrics. I used Dylon hot water dye in Pagoda red for this project.

After I had the fit exactly how I wanted it, I drew my style lines under the bust and around to the back, and made those pattern pieces seperately, and recreated the top and bottom of each pattern piece with seam allowances.

Pattern for Heart Truth
I constructed the corset as a single layer with interior coutil strips to hold the boning. Each seam was double stitched, topstitched, and trimmed before applying the waist tape and coutil strips by "stitching in the ditch" and then again on each side of the seam to create casings.

Heart Truth corset details

The center front had two solid steel bones, as well as each side of the grommets, and the next seam to the back panel. All the rest of the boning was 1/4" spiral steels, cut and tipped to fit.

Inner detail of Heart Truth corset

I then made the lining using the original pattern, so there wouldn't be as many seamlines to irritate the wearer's skin, and basted it into the corset. Narrow bias binding made from the spot broche coutil was machine stitched on, and hand finished inside.


Heart Truth Calgary corset lining detailIMG_1060
Binding detail of Heart Truth corset

Grommets placed 3/4" apart along the back, with four placed 1/2" apart at the waistline complete the body of this piece. I also made a modesty panel, and embroidered info inside on the back panels.

IMG_1078Grommet and lacing detail of Heart Truth corsetModesty panel and embroidery in Heart Truth corset

The skirt is a little fuller than a circle skirt with the lace layer several inches longer than the satin layer. I finished the satin with a tight stretched rolled hem so it flares a bit. I matched the rows of flowers around the skirt, and finished the bottom with the scalloping of the lace.

IMG_1001 - CopyIMG_1002 - Copy

Lace skirt - Heart Truth

Jill Belland in Ivy Rose original corset and lace skirtJill Belland in Ivy Rose original corset and lace skirt at Heart Truth Calgary

4th-Oct-2012 05:44 am (UTC)
This is gorgeous work! I love the fit and flair of the outfit.
4th-Oct-2012 03:15 pm (UTC)
Thank you!
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